Let’s start by saying that even small changes to the parts of a jacket can affect its impact and style. People often focus on the width of the shoulder, but in a haute couture jacket the “shoulder question” is not just a question of width. Instead, the focus is on the proportion of the shoulder to the client’s physique and its role, which must even correct any defects (sloping shoulders / or too narrow / the lower shoulder and so on). Then there is the chest, the width and line of the lapel, the button at the waist, the opening and so on.
But it’s not over. The different countries and origins of the parties build a jacket with a different structure: English jackets can be very different from Neapolitan jackets or from Milanese tailoring.
The types of jackets. Let’s have some clarity.
Classic jacket, sports jacket, blazer, suit jacket… The names given to men’s jackets are many, but it is not always clear what the difference is between one and the other. In fact, many people think that the jacket and the blazer are the same garment, and that what defines the difference is only the use that is made of it: they call a jacket what they wear as part of a suit, while they associate the blazer to a garment to be used as a broken.
Given that contemporary tailoring has become more and more complex and that what concerns men’s fashion is less and less clear and defined, it is still possible to find obvious differences between the two “must” pieces of men’s fashion, and the way in which they can or should be combined is simply the result.
Every sartorial detail related to the manufacture of a men’s jacket characterizes the style and the level of formality. For this reason, knowing the differences between a jacket and a blazer allows each man to choose his own look in the right way, and thus obtain the right dose of elegance according to the occasion and the environment in which it is located
The exclusive F. Caraceni method. The jacket is always 1-breasted or 2-breasted. So why does a jacket have style, elegance and another one not? The final harmony, that sense of Beauty is actually the result of careful study of the body and posture of the customer, added to a careful respect for the proportion of details.
- Choosing a FABRIC. There are many fabrics suitable for blazers: the classic navy blue in wool serge or in panama fabric or fresh wool more summery hopsack weave (the weave is similar to the sack cloth), but also flannel cloth type old “navy”. For the everyday blazer, sports fabrics are preferred, resistant, while for the more “luxurious” blazer there is pure cashmere in different weights, fulled or combed, up to the vicuna, the most valuable fabric in the world, lightweight but extremely warm.
The blazer can also be in smooth velvet – normally burgundy, blue or green and even in classic Scottish fabric, but also in moleskin or corduroy. - The model. The blazer can be single-breasted or double-breasted. Single-breasted two or three buttons (we at Caraceni F. prefer the 3 buttons but rolling on the third not buttonable). Two breasts with classic buttoning or low buttoning.
So far there are no differences with the jacket of a dress. But the F. CARACENI blazer will always have flaps in its pockets and two back slits. We don’t like the central slit in the American style except for jackets for horse riding.
The pockets can be fillet pockets with flaps, but also patch pockets with pockets on the chest cut or all three applied. Or you can make a small pocket with extra flap at the height of the jacket waist.
On clothes we never make flaps in the pockets and normally the dress is born without slits. In recent decades, however, many formal rules have loosened and so now we often make slits on clothes. - Buttons. Usually on a blazer you put buttons with respect to the color of the fabric. They can be made of metal – gold or silver or gunmetal – or of bone or horn. Sometimes, mainly on summer linen or cotton, you can also make buttonholes in a color different from the fabric.
Caraceni Sartoria makes luxury jackets, completely hand made. To make an appointment at our Atelier: info@caracenitailor.com | +39-02 6554284
